Cuas Diarmuid (1) is on Southern side of the island and 150 metres East of Bray Head. Depths vary from 16 metres to 30 metres and beyond. The terrain is boulder with cliff face drop offs and ledges. Kelp is plentiful and may be avoided by swimming southwards from cliff face to a depth of 20-25 metres. Strong tides prevail if one swims to far south. Flood tides sweep in and eastwards. An SMB or elephants trunk is advisable. Rose coral is found below 25 metres. Wrasse, Pollack, Conger eel, Velvet crab, Brown crab, Lobster and crayfish are plentiful. It is a photographers paradise. Bray Head (2) is to the west of Cubs Diarmuid and is more exposed to the elements. The diving is similar. A feature is the presence of diving seabirds in the 5-8 meter range. these can be Razorbill, Guillemot and Puffin. Seals also regularly check out the intruders and can nibble a fin when in playful mood which is the only time they are evident. Spit Rocks (3) offer another great dive and many of the species encountered in the previous locations occur here. At Bray Head and Spit Rocks the tides differ in that they tend to sweep outwards and North in flood and outwards and south in ebb. Harbour Rock (4) is situated within the harbour and marked by a metal perch and light. Depending on the state of the tide a depth of 12 metres is attainable. It is an ideal location for a novice or trainee dive. Visibility varies from 4 metres after rainfall to 12 metres. The life includes Anemones, Deadens fingers, Wrasse Pollack, lobster, conger, shrimp, starfish, urchins, scallop, squat lobster and shoals of mackerel in season. Basalt Cliffs (5) On the NW side of Beginish Island the cliffs offer depths from 8 to 30 metres. There are dropoffs, ledges, boulders caves and fishlife. If a swell is apparent caution is needed especially in a NW wind. When leaving the harbour it is advisable to stay close to the Valentia (lighthouse) side. The eastern corner of Beginish is dangerous to all vessels if white water is evident. Coastguards Patch: (6) This is a rather accessible location marked on the charts. It is governed by tides which can be strong at all states. The best time to dive is at slack water on neap tides. A marked shot line and depth sounder are advisable. The pinnacle begins at 24 metres and continues to a 45+ metres. Thus the shot line is necessary to avoid missing the peak. If conditions are suitable and tides slack the rock can be circumnavigated. The visibility is usually 20+ metres. The area is frequently fished so nets and pots can be encountered. Black Islands: (7) This is an interesting but shallow dive. Gullies run westwards from the shore. It is best to enter between the islands submerge and swim Northeast in flood tide or southwest during ebb tide. The ridges vary in depth from 4 to 12 metres and deeper away from shore. Kelp abounds and vis is usually good. Fishlife is profuse. Culoo Head: (8) This is a famous shore angling location and a good dive site. Entering just west of the head( to avoid angling tackle) and swimming WSW you come upon a crater like bottom. Some very large holes have the stone in place which caused the crater. Shoals of mackerel are common in season. It is possible to encounter a shoal which lasts the duration of the dive, this is an exhilerating experience. Dolus Head: (9) This is the most prominent head just north of Valentia in Dolus Bay. Descending close to the cliff one will see a cavern at nine metres divided in two by a columm of rock. It is possible to enter on one side swim in to the interior and exit the other side. The floor of the cavern is covered by a carpet of mussels. The columm is home to jewel anemonies. In good visibility no torch will be needed. There is a shelf at 18 metres and further shelves continue to beyond 30 metres. On ebb tides descend at the headland and swim southward while on flood tide swim northward. Oilean an Iasc: (10) North of Dolus head is an inlet with large rock in the center. There is ample room for two boats to manoeuvre in the safety on the south side. In ideal conditions this is a wonderful dive site. There is spectacular scenery in every direction. Fishlife is abundant and the anemonies are a particular feature. It is possible for divers to swim around the rock and swimming from the inside keeping the cliff face to the left an old mast can be seen close to the rock. The Birds: (11) Hugging the coast NE from dolus head and avoiding the reef , you come to a cliff face which is home to Razorbills, Kittiwakes and Guillemots (hence the name). The seabottom at the eastern end of the cliff is at 16-18 metres. The cliff is covered with life. Little ledges are host to many species of crab, lobster and crayfish. Nooks hold rock ling, pollack swim nonchalantly by, wrasse are plentiful, and many cuckoo wrasse are inquisitive. In late spring or early summer it is possible to find intact birds eggs which have fallen from nests above. Properly treated these make a lovely momento of your visit. Continue to swim westwards as the terrain and the life change. To the north 20-25 metres can be found but the life is less interesting.
Diving in the area is centred on the local pier which is situated in an extremely sheltered and clean inlet. It is safe for the overnight mooring of boats. There are two slipways off the pier, suitable for the launching of RIBs and inflatables. The laneway leading to the pier is a little narrow and caution should be observed while travelling on it, especially while towing a boat as the turning points are limited. however, a little prior planning can ease the situation. The inlet itself is eminently suitable for introductory dives and beginner training. It's clear waters and sandy bottom are full of life, and flatfish are plentiful. The waters vary in depth from 10-25m and is suitable for swimmers and snorkellers. A large rocky outcrop protects the narrow inlet - like a stopper in a bottle. the depth here varies from 10-25m. From the outcrop, rocky fingers spread down and out into the sandy bottom like the arms of an octopus. The sheltered gullies between them provide a haven for many species of fish and crustacean. as the distance from the pier is only about 500m, it makes an ideal location for an evening or night dive. The well lit pier makes night diving a joy and safety is guaranteed. The diving all along the coast West from the pier and on to Puffin Island is excellent, with depths from10-30m on a white sandy bottom. Ridges and reefs abound, with a multitude of gullies interrupting the underwater landscape. The waters here are generally calm, except in strong SW winds, with virtually no current.
Puffin Island is the real "Diving Jewel" in the area. About 10 minutes by RIB from the St. Fininas pier, it offers an endless choice of dive sites in relatively sheltered waters. All areas of the island are diveable and the underwater landscape is identical to the landscape above, sheer rock faces and craggy outcrops. The island itself is home to many breeding birds, in particular Puffins, during the breeding season. The diving is relatively safe and sheltered on most sides of the island. WARNING! The currents on Puffin Head at certain times and states of tide can be treacherous and instantaneous. Puffin Head is for experienced divers only and should be treated with care. The Atlantic swell at Puffin Head and on the Northern side of the island can be enormous, depending on the weather conditions. Again, common sense is required. Diver SMBs are essential here. Having issued the words of warning, the diving on Puffin Head is spectacular. Two large reefs splay SW from the tip of the island, plunging down sheer cliff faces to about 50m at the bottom. Slack tide, with strong sunlight streaming through crystal clear waters makes this a most memorable dive site. The strong currents have "cl;ose shaved" all the algae from the rock, and one gets the impression of a "bald head" while diving on the tops of the reefs. the sheltered nooks and crannies are covered in an abundance of sponges and "bejeweled" anenomes of all types. The fish and crustacean life is outstanding. Early morning often see Dolphins and Pilot Whales on the surface. Puffin Head is guaranteed to provide a spectacular dive every time. The other spectacular diving on Puffin Island is in the area of the sound. Obviously, current and wave states dictate if it is diveable. A drift dive from the North side through the sound is magnificent given the proper conditions of sunlight and water clarity. It is the closest to "tropical" diving you can come across in European waters. The variety and quantity of fish and sponge life is phenomenal. In September and October, huge shoals of mackerel and scad circle the sound incessantly, while legions of huge pollack wait on the far side of the sound, like a phalanx of Greek warriors, holding in the current, and waiting to attack any food coming their way. seals also maintain a permanent presence in the sound and add their measure of excitement to the diving.
Duchalla Head, about 20 minutes distance by RIB, and South West from the pier in Finans Bay, is also well worth noting. The outer rocks are only suitable for experienced and fit divers as the currents and swell can be difficult. The ledges drop straight down to 50m in places and again, as in the rest of the area, the fish and crustacean life is abundant. There are a multitude of canyons, gullies, rock outcrops, drop off's and holes. One of the greatest pleasures is to stop on a ledge at about 20m and look down into the clear dark depths below. After a few moments the pollack, Balun and Cuckoo Wrasse rise out of the depths. They have not learned to be afraid of the diver and are very inquisitive. The Cuckoo Wrasse in particular are very curious and adventurous. Conger Eels, Ling and Angler Fish are common among the many cracks and fissures in the rocks, particularly in the deeper, cleaner waters. It is also common to find large Cod and Conger co-habiting in the same crevice. It's hard to know what they find in common, but there is some mutual bond between them.
Lemon rock lies about half way to the Skelligs, and is also well worth a visit. Off the South there is a beautiful scenic diving down to 37m. Two light iron anchors lie together on a large flat rock; evidence of a mishap at sea. More evidence lies on top of the rock itself. The North side has beautiful terraces for a stepped descent as far as you want to go.
When weather conditions are good, Washerwoman's Rock off the SE tip of the Skelligs is the place to dive. A reef runs SW from the rock and it's diving, giving proper conditions, is second to none. Early morning is probably the best time to dive Skelligs as most of the good life seems to be about then. Dolphins, Basking sharks and whales are common.
Approx. 30 minutes by RIB and about 8 miles off shore, they should not be missed. There is a large seal colony on Little Skelligs and they are used to playing in the waters with divers. The shelter of the South West tip of the island is probably the best diving location here. The Large Gannet colony is also a major attraction but make sure you keep your mouth closed when you look skywards! While underwater, you can often encounter a Gannet that has dived on your bubbles. The first thing that announces the arrival of a Gannet is a loud "thump" as he hits the water. This is followed by the appearance of a silver arrowhead surrounded by bubbles, normally at around 15m. When the Gannet sees the diver he turns about and beats it to the surface.
This ended up as the final resting point of the "Crompton", a four masted Barque, which ran aground and was wrecked in 1910. It is now badly broken up, but beautiful visibility and fish life make it an ideal second dive as she lies in relatively shallow waters. Travelling time from the St. Fininas pier is about 15-20 minutes